Hiking the Trans Catalina Trail
Rising up in the Pacific Ocean southwest of Los Angeles and one of California’s southern Channel Islands, Santa Catalina Island, commonly referred to as Catalina, is a unique destination with its rocky coastlines, grasslands, oak woodlands, and chapparal covering the island. Most of the island is owned and maintained by the Catalina Island Conservancy, which manages the landscape supporting a balance of recreational use and ecological preservation. There are over 60 endemic plants and animals unique to the island.
Ferries from the mainland shuttle visitors to the island and between the two major cities- tiny Two Harbors in the north and Avalon in the southeast which is the most developed town on the island, and the starting point for adventures. Hundreds of miles of roads are open to hiking and biking along with many dedicated hiking trails. For over 38 miles across expanse of the island, the Trans Catalina Trail spans hiking trails, roads, and (incredibly steep at times) old jeep tracks.
I’d never heard of the trail before reading about it in one of Treeline Review's articles about shorter thru-hikes, and the Treeline crew’s detailed write up on planning and undertaking the route was my inspiration and references. Camping along the route is only allowed at designated campsites, reservations for which are released at the beginning of the year, which was when I was in front of my computer grabbing my choice dates and sites in March for three nights of camping.
LA traffic got us to the ferry later than anticipated for a rushed final throwing gear into packs and a jog back to the van to grab my cell phone left sitting on the dash. Then a nice sunny ferry cruise from the harbor away from the mainland, watching the island grow larger (and some dolphins!) and seeing clouds hang over the peaks and communication towers that dot the crest of the island. There was a stop in Two Harbors, then the boat continued on to Avalon. Dinner was found of seafood and chowder in town before heading up the road to Hermit Gulch Campground, which was lightly populated. Set up the new tent and fell asleep to the calls of a Saw-whet Owl and the conversations, shouted tent to tent of a hiker pair expressing worry about his friend’s decision to not brush his teeth.
The next morning was a quick pack up in the dark, refill with water at the campground sink, and start up the trail. No more clouds, but a warm humid morning and the first climb made it a haul up the first 1.7 miles and 1200 feet to shelter with expansive views where we caught sunrise and enjoyed breakfast and coffee. Doing the hike a bit quicker than the ideal itinerary- our first day was set to be the longest one, over 18 miles to Little Harbor. (Black Jack Campground is situated as an ideal spot to camp and break up a first long day, which is what I’d recommend).
The trail hugs ridgelines, wanders old roads and trails, passes a reservoir, goes up goes down, makes you really appreciate the precious few shady spots where oaks cover the trail, and then goes up and down some more. Up in the center of the island Airport in the Sky sits- a working runway with a restaurant and store with a shady patio- which was a welcoming spot for a long break to pet the cat, eat some burgers, hydrate, and pet the cat some more. Note- although they can be all over the island, the only bison I encountered was the one whose head was hanging on the wall over the airport restaurant’s fireplace. There’s a beautiful painted tile map of the island out front of the store.
From the Airport to our next campsite at Little Harbor was around 6.2 miles, almost entirely downhill, with incredibly glowing light amongst the grasslands and prickly pears hiking down the ridge above Big Springs Canyon. The sun dropped below the western ridge as we headed toward the ocean, and by the time we crossed the road and trekked into the campground it had dropped below the Pacific. A light warm breeze shuffled gear around the site as dinner and camp preparations were made.
With less miles for the next day the morning was a casual prep with time to enjoy the idyllic sandy beach at Little Harbor just beyond the campsites. I watched a Cormorant intimidate and evict a pair of Brown Pelicans from a choice sunning rock in the bay, while flocks of other Pelicans fed, diving spear-like into the waves.
The section climbing up the ridge toward Two Harbors was one of the most dramatic scenery wise, with expansive views of the bulk of the Island to the east and the sheer, rocky coastline of the northwest nub of the island. After reaching the high point, the trail drops steadily and heads into Two Harbors where coffee and snacks were obtained from the general store. I checked in at the Catalina Island Conservancy Visitor Services Station and bought a code to a locker at Parsons Landing- the next campsite- which held 2 gallons of water, firewood and fire starter. There is no potable water at the site, so not having to haul it up and over was nice.
The trail then follows the isthmus, crossing over the Pacific side, and second harbor of Two Harbors, before climbing steadily uphill on roads. Reaching the top was a welcome section of ridgeline where the road offers expansive views made aglow in the warmth of the late afternoon sun. The views really emphasized how green things are at the moment with the grass vibrant and lush this early in the year. We weren’t the only ones enjoying the warmth of the afternoon sun- as we turned a corner we almost stumbled on a Catalina Island Fox curled up in a cozy pothole. Sleepy and slightly annoyed, the fox got up, stretched and wandered just of the road where it curled up in some grass, gave a yawn, and returned to it’s napping schedule.
The Catalina Island fox is only found on the island, and has been undergoing a successful increase in numbers after disease introduced from the mainland ran its way through the population. They are tiny, adorable foxes, and there are posted signs all over the island to not feed or pet the foxes. All the ones minus this supremely cute lazy napping fox we encountered seemed appropriately wary of human encounters and scooted off the roads and away.
From this point high on the island and with the clear skies it was possible to see the Channel Islands rising out of the ocean to the north before you drop off onto the east side of the ridge and into the shadows. From here the trail/road track becomes steep and often very impacted by serious water damage. Really quite steep- for a good chunk of the descent was quite a slow go with backpacking gear. Glad to have poles, and happy when the trail got back to a just general steep grade on the way down to the ocean.
At Parsons Landing water and a bundle of firewood were grabbed from the locker, camp set up, dinner cooked and fire started. The campsites are quite literally on the beach, which facilitated a relaxing morning hanging out on the beach, swimming and enjoying the idyllic weather. After the long damp and cool PNW winter with not even enough snow, gentle wind, warmth and sun was a delight. Early March was a perfect time for the hike this year- warm but not aggressively hot, a great window without strong winds or weather and plenty of sun. The final miles of the trail are casual walking on a road winding its way just above the coastline, dipping in along drainages and passing by the various camps and landings before dropping into Two Harbors. Enjoyed relaxing in Two Harbors in the shade by the general store, until boarding the evening Ferry back to the mainland.
The Trans Catalina Trail offered a lovely backpacking experience that requires a bit more planning and coordination than a standard trip, but with vast rewards for the efforts of aligning all necessary pieces.
Santa Catalina Island Print Version 30"x 24" 
Elevation Changes Cartographic digital map of Catalina Island showing the vast extent of the islands hiking and biking trails available for purchase on Avenza Maps™ now! No print versions yet, although versions are designed at sizes and available by special request, prices TBD.
